How to Build a Wheelchair Ramp: A Step-by-Step Guide for Safe and Accessible Access (Residential)

Quick Answer: How Do You Build a Wheelchair Ramp?
To build a safe wheelchair ramp:

• Measure the total vertical rise from ground to doorway. 

• Use a 1:12 ratio for the slope. So for every inch high, go one foot out. For example, a 10 inch vertical distance would need a 10 foot long ramp.

• Build the ramp at least 36 inches wide.

• Install handrails if the rise exceeds 6 inches.

• Add level landings at the top and bottom.

• Use pressure-treated lumber and galvanized hardware.

• Follow local building codes and the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) slope guidelines.

The recommended ramp slope is 1 inch of rise for every 12 inches of length (1:12 ratio).

1. Plan The Ramp Layout

The most critical factor in ramp safety is the slope. 

• What is the 1:12 Ratio? For every 1 inch of vertical rise, the ramp must have 12 inches of horizontal run. Factor in existing ground slope when measuring vertical distance.
• Can I go steeper? 1:12 is the ADA requirement and recommended for residential use. Sometimes a slightly steeper 1:10 or 1:8 slope can be used if space is limited or a power wheelchair is used. Check local building codes to ensure theses allowed.
• Ramp Direction. In general, ramps can be a straight run, L-Shaped, U- Shaped, for have a slight curve. L or U Shaped ramps need level landings at the turns. 5 foot x 5 foot minimum landings are required for ADA compliance.
• Ramp Length. ADA requires a level resting area every 30 feet. 
• Top Landings. Landings at the top of a ramp are important, especially when leading to a door. Opening a door while using a wheelchair is much easier on a level surface than on a ramp. Beside to factor in the door swing and give enough space. Keep at least 18-24 inches of landing space on the latch side of doors.
• Local Building Codes. Be aware of local building codes. Setback laws may limit how far out a ramp can be built. 

2. Planning and Materials

Essential Tools

• Circular saw and miter saw

• Power drill and driver

• Level (a 4-foot level is best)

• Tape measure and chalk line

• Safety gear (goggles, gloves, ear protection)

Suggested Materials

• Pressure-treated lumber: For the frame and structural support.

• Decking boards: Pressure treated lumber or composite boards

• Exterior-grade screws: Specifically rated for pressure-treated wood

• Concrete: For footings to prevent settling and bottom landing.
• Metal transition plate: Metal plate at the bottom of a ramp to smoothly transition to the landing.
• Typical lumber sizes: 
  • 2×6 or 2×8 Ledger board, joists, and headers
  • 2×6 Decking
  • 2×10 or 2×12 Ramp stringers
  • 2×4 Railings
  • 2×2 Balusters

3. Step-by-Step Construction

Phase 1: Prep and Footings

Measure the total rise from the ground to the threshold of the doorway. Calculate your ramp length based on the 1:12 ratio.

1. Clear the area and mark the path of the ramp.

2. Dig holes for your footings at the start, end, and intervals along the ramp length. Footings and posts should be spaced 6 feet max.

3. Pour concrete footings to ensure a stable base that won’t shift with the seasons.

4. Posts can either be partially submerged in the concrete footing or sit on top with a post anchor. Local building codes may dictate this.

Phase 2: Building the Frame

Construct the frame using pressure-treated 2×6 or 2×8 lumber.

• Ledger Board: Properly secure a ledger board according to your local building code.

• Post Connections: Connect framing to posts according to local building codes. Typically with lag screws or bolts.

• Support: Ensure your joists and stringers are spaced no more than 16 inches on-center to prevent sagging. Or 12 inches max for composite decking.  Use joist hangers when  installing. 

Phase 3: Decking and Surface

• Decking: Attach your decking boards perpendicular to the direction of travel to provide natural grip. Leave a small gap (approx. 1/8 inch) between boards for drainage. Screw to the framing.
• Bottom Transition: Install at least a 12 inch metal plate at the bottom of the ramp to transition to the landing. This creates a smooth transition and prevents problems from warping deck boards.

Phase 4: Handrails and Edging

Install handrails on both sides of the ramp. They should be between 34 and 38 inches high. Space between handrails should be at least 36 inches.

• Edge Protection: Add a “curb” or kickplate (at least 2 inches high) along the bottom edge of the ramp to prevent wheelchair casters from slipping off the side.

• Balusters: If the vertical distance is over 30 inches, balusters are recommended or required by local building code. Balusters should be spaced so that nothing larger than a 4 inch sphere can fit between them. This is to prevent the heads of children getting through.

4. Maintenance Checklist

• Monthly: Check for loose screws or warped boards.

• Bi-Annually: Clean the surface to prevent algae or mold buildup, which creates a slippery surface.

• Yearly: Re-apply sealant or slip-resistant coating if necessary. Wait at least 3 months before applying a stain, sealant, or paint on pressure treated lumber. This allows the lumber to dry out and accept those applications better. Applying sooner can cause swelling and warping.

About the Author: Accessibility Expert

Wyatt Tuell is a City Planner with the City of Omaha and has over 20 years of experience making homes accessible for people with disabilities. Over his career in the non-profit and government, Wyatt has overseen over 500 home accessibility projects.  He is also the author of ADA Illustrated, which is a visualization of the ADA design standards. With over 250 3D illustrations, this book makes building codes easy to understand for everyone. Get your copy here.